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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.